Pre NYE Manhattan Cocktail

2 oz Old Overholt rye
1 oz Antica
House made clove bitters
Angostura bitters

Thirsty Lawyer Has Your Cure For The Cold and Flu Season

This time of the year, every year I come down with a head cold.  Who knows whether its the combination of the hurried pace of the holiday season, the rush to close business deals for clients by the end of the year, and the multitude of parties, or just the fact that its called the cold and flu season for a reason.  Whatever the cause, as inevitable as Christmas day, I came down with a head cold.   Aside from the drug store cold remedies,  Thirsty Lawyer also obtains relief from the self prescribed Hot Toddy. 

Honey Bourbon Toddy

The origin of the hot toddy is murky and not clear.  Some theorize that the hot toddy came from India; a drink that was produced by fermenting the sap of the palm and was made popular in Scotland by an employee of the East India Company.  Another theory claims that creation of the hot toddy was memorialized in  Allan Ramsay's 1721 poem The Morning Interview.  There are as many theories on the origin of the hot toddy as there are recipes  and I tried a few of them during my recovery.

English Toddy

2 oz Dry London Gin
1 oz fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz Ginger Honey Syrup
Hot Water.

Honey Bourbon Toddy

2 oz Honey Bourbon
1 oz fresh lemon juice
Hot Water

Although the American Lung Association would not recommend drinking a hot toddy when ill because alcohol is dehydrating, having a hot toddy, bundled up in front of a roaring fire can make an illness a bit more bearable.  

Merry Christmas

Christmas Eve, Cape Cod, family and an Old Fashion. I hope your Christmas Eve is just as perfect.

Yes Virginia, December is for Tequia?

I am sure you normally think of tequila as a summer or spring spirit; enjoying a refreshing margarita al fresco on a nice warm day. Good tequila shouldn't be shoved to the back of the bar during the chilly months. It's a virisitile spirit that should be enjoyed year round.

During the fall and winter I enjoy Tequila Reposado or Anejo.  Tequila Reposado is aged for up to  11 months in wood barrels (the most common being American or French oak that were previously used by American whiskey distilleries) with Anejo aged up to 3 years.  The aging adds great earthy flavors and complexity. This winter, I have experimented with substituting Tequila Anejo for bourbon in cocktails that have a bitter profile (those that call for sweet vermouth, Campari, etc.) Some experiments did not merit repeating; but others worked out wonderfully.

My most recent experiment was inspired by a cocktail I had at Mercado in Santa Monica. I told the bar tender the taste profiles I prefer - bitter and tart over sweet - and he made me an excellent cocktail. He said it was a spin on a Paloma (Tequila, grapefruit juice and lime juice); but only if you add a dash of Boulevardie.

2 oz. Anejo Tequila
1 oz Campari
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
1 oz fresh Grapefruit juice
.5 oz Fresh Squeezed Juice

Shake with ice and serve up.

 

Drink of the Week - The 1% Cocktail

This is a take on the Employees Only Billionaire Cocktail.  Given the time of year, I thought a bit of political levity would be appropriate.  The result; a refreshing cocktail that certainly gets my vote

2 oz Old Overhollt Rye
1 oz freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 oz simple syrup
1/2 oz brandied cherry juice

Shaken and served up in an absinthe washed glass.

Bar Review - Plan Check

Plan Check (1800 Sawtell Blvd., WLA)
3 out of 5 on the Scales of Drinking Justice

Plan isn't a bar, but a restaurant with a good cocktail program. I imagine that most patrons wouldn't think of going to Plan Check for drinks only, but they should.    Plan Check's cocktail list is innovative and interesting, but not to far out there.  Although the bar itself is small, communal tables inside and a very nice outdoor patio provide additional seating options.

The "Little Osaka Sour" (woodford bourbon, plum wine, lemon, egg white, sugar), the "Gamma Ray" (pisco porton, midori, orgeat, lemon, and lime) and the "Bento Box"  (brugal rum, licor 43, nigori sake, lemon, bitters) are a nod to the neighborhood.  

The "Spaghetti Western"

I particularly enjoyed Plan Check's take on a bloody maria, the "Spaghetti Western" (vida mezcal, tapatio, red bell pepper, lime, agave, beer).  The red bell pepper juice, lime and beer make this otherwise spicy cocktail very refreshing.  It's unfortunate that Plan Check doesn't serve breakfast as this drink would go extremely well with most egg dishes.  It did work with my veggie burger (cheese two ways, ketchup, sunny side up fried egg, and hot sauce) and the way over-salted french fries and sweet potato fries.

Team Popcorn Sutton

Visiting team Popcorn Sutton with Jamey, Jason and Mark. Good luck racing today guys

Drink of the Week - The "Improved" Whiskey Cocktail

There was a bit of a chill in the air last night; fall is definitely here.  With the change in the air I find myself craving bourbon or rye based cocktails.  This one is a perfect addition to the list.

The Improved Whiskey Cocktail

2 oz Rittenhouse Rye Whiskey

.25 oz Luxardo Maraschino Liquor

.25 oz simple syrup

Angostura Bitters

Shake and serve over ice in a Absinthe rinsed tumbler.  Garnish with a lemon twist. 

.   

Drink of the Week - The Perfect Gimlet

Boy has it been hot in LA the past few weeks.  And there is nothing better on a hot LA weekend then a cool, refreshing cocktail, and Thirsty Lawyer's mint, cucumber gimlet fits the bill.

The Perfect Gimlet

2 oz Plymoth Gin
Mint
Cucumber
Lime
.25 oz Simple Syrup

Muddle mint and cucumber in a cocktail shaker.  Juice one lime, add gin and simple syrup.  Shake and serve up.

Bar Review - The Buffalo Club

The Buffalo Club
3.5 out of 5 On The Scales of Drinking Justice

Buffalo Smash

Situated among the taquiras and industrial production facilities and hidden behind a nondescript facade sits an incredibly charming drinking establishment.  Its been open since 1994, but doesn't feel stayed our outdated.  The one complaint I have is about televisions over the bar in the courtyard.  Televisions over bars should be reserved for sports bars, dive bars or bars in hotels.  They are not appropriate for a bar that is trying to be anything other than those three things,  My advice to the Buffalo Club is loose the televisions; they are not doing anything for you anyway.

The Buffalo Club is serious about its cocktails.  They have a respectable menu, offering both the classics and modern creations.  On my recent visit, I had the Buffalo Smash (Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Fresh Muddled Orange, Lemon and Mint, Demerara Syrup, Angostura Bitters) and Mrs. Thirsty Lawyer had the Green Side (Hendrick’s Gin, Green Chartreuse, Fresh Lime Juice, Mint, Cucumber).  The drinks were well crafted and well balanced, especially the Green Side.  A heavy hand with Green Chartreuse can ruin a cocktail. 

The Buffalo Club gets a good score for its commitment to a solid cocktail program.  This is a good place to come to have a drink at the beginning of the night or if you don't want to have to fight a crowd (and don't mind the noise of the television over the bar.) 

Drinks From La La Land

Thirsty Lawyer is now in Los Angeles full time. While I took some time off to deal with moving, I am back and looking forward to bringing you posts about So Cal's cocktail culture and the occasional law related musings.

Happy (day after) National Daiquiri Day

The much maligned Daiquiri; what happened to you?  You were a very noble and sophisticated cocktail; now most of the time you are blended with tropical fruit and poured out of a Slurpee machine.  This is far cry from where you once started – a rum sour. With yesterday being National Daiquiri Day (certainly a non partisan effort) my mission to introduce you to a real daiquiri;   the Hemingway Daiquiri .

They say that the Hemingway Daiquiri was invented for Ernest Hemingway in the La Floradita bar in Cuba.  It’s also said that Hemingway allegedly drank sixteen of his namesake libations and was still able to amble out of the bar upright.  Are those just  “fish tales”? It's National Daiquiri day so suspend your rational thinking for a while. What I do know is that the Hemingway Daiquiri is a well balanced and refreshing cocktail, and it should be in high rotation this summer on your go to cocktail list.

1 ¾-ounces Dark  Rum
¾ -ounces Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur
1-ounce fresh squeezed lime juice
¾-ounce fresh squeezed grapefruit juice
¼-ounce simple syrup
1-brandied cherry, for garnish

One Thirsty Holiday Week

Long holiday weeks usually make for lots of drinking. However, I believe this holiday week might have included more drinking than usual. You see, Mrs. Thirsty Lawyer and I spent most of the week running around Los Angeles looking at a wide variety of housing options in anticipation of my August 1 start date at the Beverly Hills office of my current law firm, and at the end of a day full of house hunting a drink or two are certainly in order.

Starting with a wonderful Saturday night dinner with friends at Ella. Cocktails, The Usual Suspects, Irish Whiskey, Scotch Amaro, Lemon Bitters; Wine, an amazing bottle of white wine, Rolly Gassmann "Auxerrois", Moenchreben de Rorschwihr, from Alsace. With dessert,, a 1989 half bottle of Vouvrey Huet, (utterly amazing that a white wine aged so well. Our sommelier explained that the wine aged well because of its hight acid content).


Tuesday. Dinner at Kay and Dave's in Culver City. Cocktails, a fantastic margarita made of Mescal, triple sec, fresh lime juice and a chili pepper rimmed glass. 

Wednesday. Lunch at Fords Filling Station in Culver City. Cocktails, Bourbon Bunny Maker, Makers Mark Bourbon, fresh carrot, lemon and apricot juice, chamomile infused agave. For Ms. Thirsty Lawyer, the Refresh Thyme, Aviation gin, cucumber, thyme, agave and fresh lime juice. Later we warmed ourselves on a chilly Malibu evening watching fireworks by enjoying a glass of Pig's Ear blended 5 year old scotch and 10 year old Edradour single malt scotch.


Thursday Dinner in Los Angeles at the Westside Tavern- an upscale neighborhood bar and grille on the westside of town. Cocktails, Pepper Smash, pressed spearmint, Aviation New Western Dry gin, lemon and bell pepper juice, homemade clover honey syrup, and for Mrs. Thirsty Lawyer, Cucumber and Cantaloupe Sour, Plymouth dry gin, muddled cucumber, fresh lemon juice, cantaloupe juice, homemade clover honey syrup.



Friday. Cocktails at the very old school, but still hip Matteos. Dirty vodka martinis of course.

Saturday : Water. What, we drink lots of water.

George Washington Loved His Hooch

With the 4th of July quickly approaching, I found myself thinking about the cocktail and America and how the two have been intertwined since our great nations birth.  Up until the the American Revolutionary War (1775 to 1783),  rum had been the spirit of choice for the then American colonists. While most of the rum consumed in the colonies came from the British controlled Caribbean, smaller quantities of rum was also being produced domestically.  When the British navy blockaded the importation of Caribbean rum, sugar and molasses, resorsefull colloniests  turned to their abundant supply of corn and American whiskey quickly became the spirit of choice.

In late 1790s George Washington ran one of the country's largest rye whiskey distilleries. Washington began his venture into destilling spirits in June 1797 with the below correspondence to his Scottish plantation manager James Anderson,

Distillery. Is a business I am entirely unacquainted with; but from your knowledge of it and from the confidence you have in the profit to be derived from the establishment, I am disposed to enter upon one....

At the peak of production, Washington's destillery produced  about 11,000 gallons of rye sold at 60 cents per gallon, netting Washington a profit of $7500 in 1799 (which is $136,363.64 in 2012 dollars), sold mainly to his thirsty local community.  According to archeological dig records, Washington's Mt. Vernon destillery was only a 75-by-30-foot distillery.  Diring its time, it was  was among the largest structures of its kind in the eighteenth century.

(In researching this post I came across an fantastic event east coast burbon fans should try to attent.  The Mt. Vernon estate is featuring a whiskey tasting and dinner event on August 3, Gentleman Distiller.  This sounds like a great way to  learn more about Washington’s role as “Distiller-in-Chief.”)

Feeling patriotic, I decided to toast our great founding father by making a cocktail with great history (and one of my favorite rye based drinks) - the Sazerac.  The Sazerac is known as the oldest American cocktail and has its roots in pre–Civil War (1861 - 1865) New Orleans, Louisiana.  I am certain George would approve.

The Sazerac

2.5 oz Rittenhouse 100 proof rye whiskey 
half teaspoon brown sugar
half teaspoon simple syrup
Peychaud's bitters
Angostura bitters.
Herbsaint (substitute for Absinthe)

Season a rocks glass with Herbsaint (I use an small atomizer but you can swirll the liquid around the inside of the glass and then discgard the excess) then chil.  In a seperate mixing glass add both sugars and saturate with 3 to 4 dashes of Peychaud's bitters and 1 to 2 dashes of Angostura bitters.  Mix the sugars and bitters into a gritty paste, add the rye and then stir gently.  Add a generous portion of ice and continue stirring.  Strain into the chilled rocks glass and garnish with a lemon twist.

Drink of the Week- The Archangel

The warm weekend weather got me in the mood for summer. Personally, summertime cocktails are refreshing, thirst quenching libations. Thumbing through my cocktail recipe books for inspiration, I found a drink in the that I just had to try- The Archangel

Start with a few slices of cucumber and muddle well in a shaker. Add 2.25 ounces of Plymouth gin and .75 oz Aperol. Shake and serve up with a twist. If you are Mrs. Thirsty Lawyer, add .5 oz fresh lemon juice.

Tequila Surprise in a Town Known For Wine



Alebrijes' Infused Tequila



Recently Mrs. Thirsty Lawyer and I were visiting some friends of ours who live in Lodi, California. Lodi is in San Joaquin valley, which produces more wine grapes than any other part of California (yes, even Napa). It's a gem of a town for wine lovers; lots of great wineries pouring quality wine, great restaurants and one of my favorite resort hotels, Wine and Roses. While the ladies were being pampered at the Wine and Roses spa, my friend and I set out to grab lunch and a drink (or two).  I thought for sure we would find ourselves visiting a few of the numerous downtown tasting rooms. Instead my friend - knowing I enjoy a good cocktail - took me by Alebrijes Mexican Bistro to sample their wide selection of infused tequilas. They had a few of the standard tropical fruit infusions, but the majority of infusions were unique and inspiring (more on that later...).

I started off with a margarita made with rosemary and pomegranate infused tequila, fresh lime juice and fresh agave nectar. I personally would have liked to taste a bit more rosemary, but I certainly can see myself drinking a few of these over the summer. Next I ordered a shot of the coconut and cucumber infused tequila - it just blew me away. The refreshing taste of the cucumber and the slightly sweet coconut were a nice balance against the earthy flavor of the tequila. We were having so much fun sampling these infused tequilas that we never made it to any of the tasting rooms.

Cucumber-Ginger Infusion

Inspired by experience, the next morning I broke out the trusty old mason jar and put together a cucumber ginger tequila infusion.  Here's the recipe 

Half a cucumber, pealed and sliced;

1 tsp chopped ginger;

1.5 cups silver tequila (Hornitos) 

Shake daily and let is sit in a cool place for 2 weeks.

Another Thirsty Lawyer Travles to England

Another thirsty lawyer, Jim Clarke, traveled to England and Ireland this week for a spot of fun (when he is in Ireland, its a wee bit 'o fun).  He promised to send me updates of his cocktail adventures and this is his first.

It it's 11:30 PM  gmt Thursday.  I have been up since 0700 AM PST.  Jet lag has been successfully beaten.

Tonight after a few pints of the sweat nectar of the gods with my London chums, we went out for a late night dinner at a Turkish place in the Regdnt Park area. Food was ok.  It is not going to make me forget about dinners in Nishantasi. 

I had some Turkish red wine with dinner. It was light and fruity.  Similar to a Beaujelais.  A good accompaniment to the dinner.

St. Patrick Day Cocktail Contest

Yesterday I had the good fortune to be one of three judges in a St. Patrick's day cocktail contest in which  ten of the area's best bartenders competed head to head in a bracket format competition.  Each judge would choose from one of five different cocktails - Irish whiskey based of course.  The bartenders would compete for time, with the judges adding time no time for perfect cocktail to up to thirty seconds for a fatally flawed drink.

One of the more challenging drinks was the Tipperary #1.  The recipe called for 1 oz Jameson Irish whiskey, 1 oz. sweet vermouth and 1 oz Green Chartreuse, stirred, strained and garnished with a lemon twist.  In the initial rounds all of the judges agreed that the recipe called for to much Green Chartreuse, and it wasn't until the final round where the bartenders were able to get the balance right.  It's a shame I didn't think to ask; I guess that just means I will have to experiment on my own.

The Weeski

One of the cocktails I very much enjoyed and will add to my regular rotation is the Weeski - 2 oz Redbreast Irish whiskey, 3/4 oz Lillet Blanc, 1/4 oz Trip Sec, one dash orange bitters, one barspoon of simple syrup, stirred, strained and garnished with an orange twist.  In the early rounds, to heavy of a hand with the Trip Sec and simple syrup made the drink to sweet.  In later rounds, where the bartenders didn't freepour and focused on exact measurements, we were able to appreciate just how complex and well balanced this cocktail is.

The Paddy Cocktail

Another favorite is the Paddy Cocktail which is really in Irish whiskey take on a Manhattan.  The recipe calls for 2 oz Redbreast Irish whiskey, 1 oz sweet vermouth, one dash Angostura bitters, stir, strain and garnish with a lemon twist.  Personally I found that one ounce of sweet vermouth can overpower the taste of whiskey.  After giving this comment in the first round, the bartenders scaled back the amount of sweet vermouth they used (probably to 3/4 an oz) bringing the taste of the whiskey forward and making the drink well balanced.

Cocktail of the Week - The Rob Roy

The Rob Roy is a classic cocktail that, despite the resurgance the cocktail, you don't see it very often.

The History:  First created in 1894 by a bartender at the Waldorf Hotel in New York City. The drink is named after the Scottish folk hero Robert Roy MacGregor who became famous for stealing from the rich and giving to the poor.  Don't feel bad for Robin Hood; he has a cocktail named after him but it certainly isn't as well known. I wonder if the two could trade places for Rob Roy would rather be known for his acts of humanity - like Robin Hood - or for his namesake cocktail

The Recipe: 

• 2.5 oz Scotch.  I pref(er The Famous Grouse.  It's a very nice blended scotch that won't break the bank.)
• .75 oz Sweet Vermouth.
• A few dashes of bitters. (Angoustoura is traditionally used, but blood orange works equally as well.)
• Stir with ice and serve up in a cocktail glass
• Garnish with a twist or cherries (or do as I did and garnish with a twist and bourbon soaked cherries)

Falernum - New Item For The Bar

I recently discovered the wonders of John D. Taylor's Velvet Falernum.  Falernum is a sweet  tating spirit that is primarily used in Caribbean and tropical drinks. It contains flavors of almond, ginger and/or cloves, and lime.  I recently enjoyed it in a classic rum drink, the Corn n' Oil: (Cruzan Black Strap Rum, John D. Taylor‟s falernum, fee‟s old fashion bitters)

New Tropical - Its In The Foam

Creative bartenders have been importing various techniques from molecular gastronomy for a few years now.  You come to expect this in major metropolitan area, but I certainly did not expect to find this in Maui.  Merriman's in Kapalua has an exceptional offering of cocktails, including a few that incorporate molecular mixology. 

The first cocktail to note is the Tequila & Mango:  Cazadores tequila, Lahaina mango shrub, Hawaiian chili peppers, coconut foam.  I am not a fan of flash over substance, but this really works  The foam adds a nice layer of texture and flavor; first you taste the  rich, slightly sweet, coconut foam, then you taste the sweetness of the mango, the spice of the chili peppers, and the earthiness of the tequila.  Come this summer, I fully intend to copy this recipe!

The Mai Tai is dead, long live the Mai Tai

Dear Monkeypod-

I can never drink another Mai Tai again; you killed my ability to ever agin enjoy that cloyingly sweet verion of the cocktail served at every Laua and hotel restaurant on the island. Having been to Maui many times before, I knew not to expect much in the way of cutting edge mixology. I was fully prepared to drink my share of cocktails with umbrellas and be content. But then our paths happened to cross. There you stood, from the outside, a very unassuming second story location in a strip mall in Wailea. But I knew the minute I read the description of the Monkeypod Mai Tai that I was in for something very special. (Old Lahaina Rum, Maui dark rum, lime, Orgeat, Orange Curacao and Honey-Lilkoi foam)


No overly sweetened mixes here. The foam is like a lilkoi meringue; it slowly sweetens the cocktail as it melts.   The flavor of the light and dark rum are not hidden behind a sweet syrup mixer (you can actually taste the alcohol) and the Orgeat adds just a hint of Almond.

It is true Monkypod, that you feature lots of other intreaguing "new tropical" cocktails that showcase your appreciation for current mixology trends.   But the Monkeypod Mai Tai has the strongest sense of "place"' (wine folkes call it terrior) of any cocktail I have ever tasted. Lush, beautiful, sweet, strong, and memorable; it's wonderfull Hawaii in a glass.  

Mahalo-

Thirsty Lawyer

The Maui Mama White Linen

Thirsty Lawyer and Mrs. Thirsty Lawyer are in Maui for some much needed down time. (For me that means reviewing deals and taking calls in a beach chair.) We went out to Mama's Fish House; a beautiful restaurant on the north side of the island. Mama's sits on right on the beach in a secluded cove, tiki torches lighting up an otherwise dark night with the sound of the ocean in the background. It's one of the most romantic restaurants in Maui.

Mama's food is top notch, but lets be honest, Hawaii isn't well known for its craft cocktail culture. Sure you can find a Mai Tai and similar sweet rum drinks at every restaurant and bar, but we were looking for something not so sweet but still "tropical". So we made some changes to one of our favorite cocktails, the White Linen, (first introduced to us at Ella in Sacramento) and came up with Mama's White Linen.

First we had the bartender muddle pineapple in a shaker, add two oz. of Hendricks Gin, half an ounce of St. Germain, and one ounce of fresh lemon juice. Add ice, shake and serve up. It's a refreshing cocktail; a bit tart with just a touch of sweetness from the St Germain and the pineapple. The cocktail would have benefitted from adding a cucumber (cucumber and pineapple = extremely refreshing) but sadly no cucumber behind the bar.

Recipe of the Week - The 212

Tequila. The mere mention of this spirit may cause a chill to run down your spine; the flashback to a college drinking evening gone horribly wrong still burned in the deep recesses of your mind. Having spent my formative years at San Diego State University (a mere 35 minutes from downtown Tijuana) my taste buds were scarred from shooting inferior tequila (paint thinner possibly??). It took a long and arduous rehab process, but I am better now and happy to say, very much enjoying just how very good tequila can be.

The 212

The 212 (From the PDT cocktail book)

Start with 2 oz of reposado tequila in a shaker with ice.  I prefer La Cofradia or Corralejo, but feel free to experiment with any 100% Agave reposado tequila. Add 1 oz Aperol and 2 oz of pink grapefruit juice. Shake and strain over fresh ice; garnish with an orange twist.

Have Bar Gear Will Travel

Since my budding mixology skills have now become fairly well known by my friends and colleagues, invitations to dinner parties have taken an interesting twist, such as last night. Our host really didn't want us to bring a bottle of wine or dessert as we offered; instead our host asked if I wouldn't mind making a cocktail or two during cocktail hour. Would I mind having people complement my drinks, insist that I must have been a bartender during college (not true), and ask how I came to write about cocktail culture? Are you kidding me! Who wouldn't want to be the center of attention for a few hours...at another person's party none the less.

When I spoke to my friend and dinner host for Saturday night, I couldn't just agree to make drinks and hope that I was going to step behind a well stocked bar. I asked him to give me an inventory of his bar and immediately began assembling a drink list in my head. Although he had to pick up a few additional staples such as Hendricks gin, Lillet blanc, a good Sweet Vermouth, and Angostura bitters, in my opinion any home bar should have these items.

I always bring a fair number of items from my own bar stock such as Aperol, Punt e Mes, house made simple syrups (lemongrass, clove, rosemary), and specialty bitters (blood orange, Aztec chocolate, house made clove and hellfire).  But even more important to bring are certain bar tools without which making quality cocktails would be impossible
.

The most important item is the measuring cup. You can't free pour a craft cocktail; precise measurements are required. I am particular fond of the OXO Stainless Steel Mini Measuring Cup.

A hand juicer is also a must. I refuse to use pre-squeezes lemon or lime juice; I always squeeze fresh juice. I like the metal lemon juicer by Progressive. Its quick, sturdy and works.

I always have a muddler at the ready. Unless the host is already somewhat of a cocktail aficionado its not likely that they will have a muddler. Since a few items on my "go to" list of drinks require muddled mint or cucumbers, I always bring my muddler.

I always bring a channel knife. What's a cocktail without a garnish. Rather than trying to make it work with a dull vegetable peeler, I always pack my channel knife for making all variety of twists.

It's always a bit humorous to arrive at a friend's house and unpack two bags of bar gear, but good drinks take work. 

Gift From the Big Easy

My friend Keith came back from a trip to New Orleans and brought me this great book; its part cocktail, party history. Keith, who isn't a cocktail enthusiast (but from his stories, quite a drinker) picked up the book as part of "the best tour he's ever been on." It was a cocktail history tour of the French Quarter. Having never been to New Orleans myself (yes hard to believe; you may laugh at me now) Keith description of the tour made me really want to go to New Orleans. If I go, I'll certainly look up tour guide Joe Grndusa and take his tour. I will also heed Keith's warnings and avoid the "Green Fairies" if I have to remain vertical for the rest of the evening.

Napa Valley, China???

(c) Wally Gobetz 2009

California Wines are famous worldwide, Napa Valley is probably the most well known appellation of all.  According to the California Wine Institute, in 2010 California's total wine shipments worldwide totaled 241.8 million cases, with ninety percent of all U.S. wine exports coming from California, reflecting an estimated $1.14 billion in winery revenues.  Thirty-eight percent of U.S. wine exports were shipped to the 27-member countries of the European Union, accounting for $435 million in winery revenue; exports to Hong Kong accounted for $116 million in winery revenue; exports to Japan accounted for $76 million in winery revenue; and exports to accounted for China accounted $45 million in winery revenue.

While the worldwide fame and lore of California wine presents good opportunities for exporting a high quality luxury product, it also present challenges for California wine trade associations responsible for protecting the good names of well-known wine regions.  Having no legal protection in certain foreign nations and facing a cultural tolerance of counterfeit goods in certain foreign territories, how does the Napa Valley and other California wine regions protect their good names. 

In the United States, the names of wine regions such as Napa Valley are protected primarily under federal labeling laws administered by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (the "TTB"). The TTB has implemented regulations that govern what can or cannot be included on a wine label. Wine producers must obtain TTB approval of each wine label in advance of bottling.   For example, TTB regulations include restrictions on the use of an appellation of origin and an American Viticultural Area (AVA) such as Napa Valley.  In order to use to an appellation of origin on a wine label, 75% of the wine must be derived from grape grown in the appellation area indicated, and in order to use an AVA on a wine label, no less than 85 % of the wine must be made with grapes grown within that viticultural area.  Napa Valley became an AVA in 1981. 

Most states also regulate wine labels.  Some states merely require that a wine label meet TTB guidelines, but other states have their own wine label requirements that may be more restrictive than the TTB requirements.  In the early 2000 the Napa Valley Vintners association lobbied for the passage of California Business and Professions Code section 25241 which prohibits the use of a brand name with the word “Napa,” or any federally recognized viticultural region within Napa County, on the label, packaging material, or advertising of wine produced, bottled, labeled, offered for sale or sold in California, unless at least 75 %of the grapes used to make the wine are from Napa County, or 85 % of the grapes used to make the wine are from a viticultural region within Napa Valley.  There is a similar federal regulation; however it contains a “grandfather” clause excepting “brand names used by the permittee involved on existing certificates of label approval (COLA) issued prior to July 7, 1986.”  The California legislation had no such grandfather clause.  The California statute was a direct attack on Bronco Wine Company’s "Napa Creek" and "Napa Ridge" wine brands.  Bronco had purchased the brands from a prior owner who had COLAs issued prior to July 7, 1986.  Bronco argued that the state law conflicted with Bronco’s federally registered COLA, that the state law violated Bronco’s free speech rights, and constituted an illegal taking.  Bronco eventually lost its battle when the United States Supreme Court declined to hear its case in 2006.

On the international front, Napa Valley Vintners association, a trade association representing Napa Valley wineries, have managed to secure protection of Napa Valley through having foreign nations recognize Napa Valley as a geographical indication (GI).  In 2007 the EU granted GI status for “Napa” and “Napa Valley” giving the association legal grounds to challenge various EU trademarks that incorporated those terms.  In November, 2011 Thailand granted Napa and Napa Valley GI status and the association is presently working on securing GI status for Napa Valley in India, China and Canada.

The Agreement on Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) also provides a global spectrum of protection of geographic indications.   TRIPS  is an international agreement administered by the World Trade Organization (WTO).   TRIPS defines a geographic indications as “indications which identify a good as originating in the territory of a Member, or a region or locality in that territory, where a given quality, reputation or other characteristic of the good is essentially attributable to its geographical origin.”  TRIPS  provides a means for challenging trademarks in a member country where the mark “uses a geographical indication in a way that misleads the public as to the true place of origin.” 

As of the date of this article, Napa Valley still lacks geographical indication protection in China.  However, by joining the WTO, China faces the requirement of bringing its national laws in line with the terms of TRIPS.  Prior to China joining the WTO, there was little the Napa Valley Vintners association could do to prevent Chinese wineries such as Hongye Grape Wine Company from filing a Chinese trademark registration application for the mark “Napa Valley (Napa Hegu).  Still, even after China joined the WTO and with Napa Valley on the verge of receiving GI status, the association still faces challenges such as the prospect of local producers launching "Nava Valley" as a geographic indication.

The Association’s global brand protection strategy doesn’t solely revolve around legal wrangling.  According to Terry Hall, the Association’s Communication Director, equally important is creating brand awareness and demand for legitimate product.  This is done through annual trade missions, local promotion of product, and increasing export volume.  Still, it’s not clear to what degree the association’s efforts will affect local wine purchasing habits.  A January article in the Global Times quoted a manager of a Beijing wine salon as saying "China is not a mature market for wine” and “what the consumers care about most is the label on the bottle, not the taste of the wine."  According to the article, Chateau Lafite is extremely popular in China right now; bottles are purchased as gifts for others.  However, according to consultant Sommelier Duan Lian quoted in the Global Times article, almost 90% of the Lafite’s sold in China are counterfeit.

War in Napa

Man of war!

Tonga Room in Napa

This is what happens at corporate retreats after the hard work gets done. One of my law firm partners came up with this creation, the Ring of Fire. Another one of my law firm partners, Shawn, said it tasted like a bad Chinese dish!

The Mad Man Martini

Cocktails at the Pied Piper Room at the historic Palace hotel and I was trying a drink that is a new edition to  my list of favorites. They called it the "Mad Man" Martini; I just call it really good. It's a vodka martini with a splash of scotch (in this case Macallan 12). The smokiness of the scotch played well against the clean taste of the vodka . The vodka the Pied Piper Room served was Grey Goose but I could see Belvedere playing incredibly well in this drink. The smooth, sweet taste of the Belvedere would be a very nice contrast to the peaty, smoky flavor of the Scotch.  Mad Men indeed!

Cocktails and Amuse-Bouches by Daniel Boulud

Don't you just love it when you get a gift that is perfect for you!  This holiday good friends of ours - people who apparently know us very well - got us this amazing recepie book by Daniel Boulud and mixologist, Xavier Herit.  It's a two volume collection of modern twists on classic cocktails and hors d'oeuveres- one volume designed for him and one for her.  How absoluely perfect.

This past Friday we made two amazing cocktails from the "for him" volume - the Bourbon T Sour and the Mayfair Sour. 

The Bourbon T Sour calls for Earl Grey tea infused bourbon (which also makes a great Manhattan), lemon juice, simple syrup, Angostura bitters and a an extremely fancy garnish of brandied cherries and lemon peel.



The Mayfair Sour required a new addition to my bar - Benedictine. Given how great the Mayfair Sour tasted, I can see eventually draining that bottle.

The Mayfair Sour calls for the combination of gin (I prefer Plymouth), Benedictine, apricot liqueur, lemon juice and one egg white in an empty shaker,. After a shake or two, add ice, a few drops of peach bitters and shake again.

The Holiday Gift That Keeps On Giving

Over the holiday I received a copy of The PDT Cocktail Book, a great collection of unique and fun recipes. Last Friday night we played a game of cocktail roulette by opening the book to two random pages and making the drink on those pages.  If those two cocktails are a general reflection of the drink recipes throughout the book we are going to have a great time making our way through it.

Fate or karma decided that the first cocktail we were to try would be The Edgewood. 

This drink combines Gin (I prefer Plymoth), grapefruit juice, Punt e Mes and Lillet Blanc, shaken over ice, served up and garnished with a pinch of kosher salt.  Lillet and grapefruit juice is such a great flavor combination its no surprise to see them again. (For another great drink featuring Lillet and grapefruit juice see my recipe for the French Blond)

As luck would have it, the second cocktail ended up being the Corpse Reviver 2; another cocktail with Lillet. What luck!  Equal parts Gin, Cointreau, Lillet and lemon juice, shaken and served up in an Absinthe washed glass.

This drink comes with a history:  At one time there was an entire family of Corps Reviver cocktails originally intended as a cure for a hangover.  All but the original Cognac based Corpse Reviver and gin based Corpse Reviver #2 have been lost to time.   The only reason why these two cocktails are still around is due entirely to the efforts of  prohibition era bartender Harry Craddock.  Craddock was the chief barman at London's Savoy Hotel and is responsible for penning The Savoy Cocktail Book.  Both of the Corpse Reviver recipes are in this book.

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The True Meaning of Happy Hour

Have to love So. Cal in the wintertime!

Zach Smith the Peat Monster

Big and peaty...and so is the Scotch